Poor attic insulation is like keeping your windows open in the winter!
If you have never done it, this is a good time to check your attic insulation to be sure it is doing all it can to keep your home’s energy inside and your money in your wallet.
If it’s a finished attic or a cathedral ceiling you’ll need to call in a professional installer. These types of attics usually require blown in insulation and this is not for the novice to try. Since most of us probably have an unfinished attic, that’s what we’re going to talk about on this page.
Tools neededMaterials NeededLet’s first see how much attic insulation you already have up there. Get yourself a yardstick or some other non-flexible ruler and stick the ruler down into it until you feel the bottom. Don’t do this with much force or you may put a hole in your ceiling below. Determine what kind of insulation you have already in place and with the amount that is up there, determine what your current R-value is. 
If you have vermiculite in the attic, STOP and have it tested for asbestos before doing anything! Vermiculite looks like little silvery and gold cubes. it's very common in gas fireplaces as it glows when burned but doesn't burn away. Take a sample to wherever you are buying your insulation if you aren’t sure of the type you have. You can put different types of insulation together but it is better to have the denser insulation on the bottom. The higher the R-value, the better the insulating value you will get. You do not want to use a vapor barrier between layers of insulation; moisture needs to pass through all the layers. Generally, the R-value in your attic should be R-30 for warmer regions and as high as R-60 for the very coldest. Loose insulation is the lightest and the rolls of batting are the heaviest in this chart. There is also rigid insulation that is denser but it is used more inside walls, rarely found in attics. The rolled insulation is the easiest to work with. If you have a loose insulation up there and want to put rolls on top of it, just add on an extra inch or so to the depth you would normally add to compensate for compression factor. Be sure to use rolls without a vapor barrier, or remove it before putting it down. Vapor barriers should only be used when attic insulation is put down the first time. Then it is laid closest to the living space. The rolled insulation is usually made to fit between the attic joists which are usually 16 or 24 inches apart and they are usually 25 feet long. Put some plywood across the joists in your attic so you can walk easier and without fear of falling through the ceiling. Important note! Do NOT step in between the joists onto the drywall or plaster lath, it will not hold you.
Measure the distance between your joists to determine the width of the batting. Then using a tape measure, measure how long the boards run from one end to the other so you can get a close estimate of how many rolls you will need. Most places will take back extra, UNOPENED, rolls so it’s always better to overestimate. Be sure to NOT cover any vents and stay 3 inches away from chimneys, recessed lights and fan motors. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions on the label and don’t unroll it until you bring it to the attic. Cut the rolls down to size with a utility knife. It’s a fairly easy job and one that is well worth doing if you're house is under insulated to start with.
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